Three Trends Defining Men’s Outerwear This Season

This season, men’s outerwear is evolving in unexpected ways. While military and workwear influences remain a strong foundation, designers are refining classic silhouettes with contemporary details, blending utilitarian functionality with statement-making design. From sharp uniform dressing to cinched trenches, outerwear is becoming the defining element of a look.

At the same time, a counter-movement is emerging, with oversized, relaxed silhouettes offering a softer, more expressive take on utilitarian dressing. Through loose tailoring, exaggerated proportions, and bold fabric or colour choices, designers are redefining functionality in a way that prioritises both comfort and individuality.

This variance in trending style could also signal broader cultural shifts. Just like more established indicators such as the Hemline Index, structured, uniform-inspired outerwear may reflect a collective desire for resilience and stability, while more relaxed silhouettes embrace a freer and more expressive mindset.

Let's see which direction consumers are taking – and where they get their inspiration from.

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Uniform Influences

Military and uniform aesthetics have long shaped menswear, and this season, they return with a refined and functional edge. Designers are drawing from traditional military styles, incorporating structured wool pea coats, aviation jackets and workwear staples that mesh heritage with modern wearability.

Key design elements like structured shoulders, belted waists, double-breasted closures, epaulettes, and decorative braiding reinforce the authoritative feel, especially when paired with a palette of neutrals, military greens, navy blues, and reds

Designers are interpreting the trend in distinctive ways. Thom Browne, Inc. and Giorgio Armani refine classic military shapes with modern styling. Brands like Balmain and Pierre Louis Mascia fully lean into the ceremonial red and decorative braiding, embracing military grandeur. On the more functional side, Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior Couture and Prada Group champion bomber and Harrington jackets that blend practicality with the commanding presence of uniform dressing. From Dior’s polished take to Burberry’s edgier aesthetic and Rick Owens’ futuristic vision, these interpretations reinforce the ongoing dominance of utilitarian style in menswear.

Consumer interest reflects this enduring appeal. The Harrington Jacket has shown strong growth, up by 22.6% over the last year, suggesting a rise by 51.52% in popularity in the next 24 months. Similarly, Military Greens are maintaining a steady demand, with a 2-year consumer interest growth of 6.8%. Overall, suggesting that there is a growing interest in more traditional styles, which have been elevated in modern ways.

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Shaped and Cinched

Drawing inspiration from military officers, cinched outerwear is another statement-making trend this season. While traditionally tailored coats signified status and discipline, designers are reworking that concept by playing with proportions with exaggerated shoulders, belted waists, and sharply sculpted trench coats.

Jane Wade, Kolor and Saul Nash emphasise the waist with statement belts creating bold form-fitting silhouettes. Similarly, JordanLuca contrasts the boxy tailoring with cinched detailing and Ferrari takes a sleeker, more understated approach. Even Maison Margiela and Brioni, who embrace a more relaxed and unique take on the trend, subtly integrate waist-defining details into their designs that feel fresh yet refined.

Consumer interest in Men’s Trench Coats continues to show steady seasonal demand with a 1-year growth rate of 14.4%. Similarly, Belted Coats has seen consistent growth, with a notable 49.41% increase over the past year.

Historical influences are fully shaping this trend. WOOYOUNGMI’s power-shouldered coats reference military dress uniforms, while the asymmetric closures, layered lapels, and structured tailoring elevate classic officer attire. The rise in cinched outerwear highlights how status-driven dressing continues to shape modern menswear.

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Oversized and Relaxed

In contrast to the rigid structure and muted tones of military and aviation outerwear, designers are also embracing oversized silhouettes and bold colour palettes as a form of rebellion. These fluid-draped shapes reject restriction, favouring comfort and expression over structure and discipline.

MORDECAI, Calvin Klein, and Todd Snyder are leading the counter-trend with sweeping, floor-length coats that contrast sharply with the tailored silhouettes seen elsewhere this season. Meanwhile, KidSuper, KENZO and Gucci are injecting vibrancy into the trend, with bright purples, electric blues and striking greens, acting as an intentional contrast from the neutral, navy and military-inspired colour schemes used in other trends.

Some brands like Prada Group and Loewe, find a middle ground, maintaining some structure while softening silhouette. Whereas others, such as KidSuper, fully embrace exaggerated proportions that feel intentionally unstructured and dramatic.

The data confirms this growing movement. Men's Relaxed Fit continues to gain interest, with a 21.5% growth rate over the past year, signalling a sustained interest in more expressive silhouettes. Simultaneously, Oversized Coats show steady growth, with a notable peak in early 2025, having gained a 56.97% increase in consumer interest over the past year.

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The Bigger Picture

This season presents a compelling divide in menswear: on one side, structured military precision dominates; on the other, relaxed, oversized styles are challenging traditional tailoring. Unlike the seasonal peaks of cinched outerwear, relaxed silhouettes show consistent long-term growth, suggesting that whether sculpted or fluid, outerwear remains central to modern menswear.

Menswear is undergoing a structural shift, and outerwear is leading the charge. What was once purely functional, outerwear now defines the look, shaping both style and identity. This ongoing push and pull between structure and freedom, discipline and self-expression, is reshaping men’s outerwear in real time.

Beyond aesthetics, the resurgence of military-inspired silhouettes and design elements could reflect deeper societal influences. In upcoming uncertain times, structured silhouettes and utilitarian detailing may signal a collective gravitation toward protection and control, which mirrors historical patterns in fashion where styles and trends have often been a result of wider economic and cultural shifts. Conversely, the rise of oversized, fluid shapes suggests a rejection of restriction, instead embracing personal freedom and individuality.

Either way, outerwear is now a way to make a bold statement.