The Convergence of Utility and Play Through Accessories

Our early September public call, FW26 Prediction: Where Utility Meets Play, began by looking back and tracing the trend signals from FW25 and SS26, which led to the identification of two countering forces, utilitarian and play outerwear, that now appear to be merging for FW26.

What stood out most was the continued rise of customisation. Throughout early 2025, personalisation has built serious momentum from bag charms to garment customisation, and everyday clothes were being turned into self-expression capsules. With FW25 centred on durable investment pieces, FW26 has evolved this position with dependable staples being refreshed with statement accessories that allow for play and individuality.

Watch the call here.

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Why Now

Fashion’s shift to utilitarianism in FW25 signalled a need for control and protection amid global uncertainty. Both menswear and womenswear leaned into traditional uniform codes, with belted trench coats, structured silhouettes, and protective fabrics in military colours.

The response was a counter-force of play seen through exaggerated silhouettes, electric colours, and unexpected fabrics and trims.

SS26 revealed the first signs of the convergence, with menswear exploring a playful preppy twist to uniform dressing and womenswear warming neutral palettes with shades like butter yellow and adding more expressive silhouettes. FW26 is where these trends truly meet, with accessories as the bridge between function and play.

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The Year of Customisation

Our previous reports on Losercore, bag charms, and the Symbol Seekers movement highlighted the importance of customisation as an alternative form of control, hope, and escapism. With the FW26 convergence in motion, personalisation through accessories is turning season-appropriate, functional pieces into fun, expressive, and completely individual.

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Key Accessories on the Runway

Hoods and Bandanas

Whilst hoods could suggest a further fall into functional fashion, they are now becoming whimsical statement pieces. Designers such as Aknvas and Eudon Choi present detachable, colour-drenched balaclavas and bandanas (+15.1%). While Sandy Liang and Henrique Vibskov explore brighter silks and cottons for a more expressive take, and Kidsuper has evolved the traditional navy into an electric blue, shifting more towards play than utility.

Bandanas, in particular, are seen to be growing with fabric variation, including silk and wool trending upwards.

In retail, brands are currently adopting the trend more subtly for now, taking inspiration from designers like Vince. Urban Outfitters and Free People opt for functional wool versions, while Maje, Ganni, and Damson and Madder lean into play with bold colours, patterns, and textures.

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Tights

After a major SS26 runway resurgence, tights are evolving to become a key accessory for expressive layering for the colder months. For stark monochromatic looks inspired by Tibi or a contrasting clash seen from Marine Serre, tights have been used across designers to embed personality into a look.

Indie brands, including Swedish Stockings and Snag Tights, are already offering colour-block (+14.4%), ripped (+18.0%), and printed (+13.2%) options, all of which are set to trend in the following year, and we are beginning to see more mainstream retailers like Urban Outfitters and Lazy Oaf push clashing mismatches and bold graphics onto tights.

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Scarves

Scarves are not a revolutionary accessory for this time of year. However, FW26 is reimagining them in dramatic forms. Harunobu Murata and Alix Higgins showed sculptural scarf coats in recent collections, evolving from scarf dresses (+120.2%) and tops (+55.4%) seen across SS26. On the accessories front, all shapes, weights, and colours have been seen from brands including Vince, Maria McManus, and Albus Lumen, in both wool and satin.

Mainstream brands are quickly following suit, with a similar wide variety of options being translated into brands like Rixo and Arket for elegant silks. At the same time, Adanola and Minka Dink opted for chunky knits and striking patterns.

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Bags

Similar to the patterns seen across Outerwear, practicality remains key for bags. Slouchy and structured (+147.8%), leather (+8.7%), and suede bags (+39.5%) are dominating in earthy browns (+16.4%) and tans (+4.0%). Elie Saab, Ganni, and Victoria Beckham highlight timeless structural shapes, whilst Aje and Tibi introduce the more playful variations with slouchy leather and unique shapes.

Mainstream brands are following the trend of hardwearing bags for FW26. Coach and Madewell settled for the timeless structured leather designs; La Redoute and & Other Stories took a more expressive approach with clutch bags in patent leather and suede.

With bag trends remaining functional and timeless, they provide the perfect backdrop for the continued trend of customisation, with charms, pendants, and decorative straps, where the customisation culture really gained traction and continues to thrive.

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The Future

FW26 accessories capture the current mood of cautious optimism. After the control and restraint of FW25, consumers are ready for small freedoms. Detachable hoods, statement scarves, and vivid tights offer low-risk, high-impact ways to refresh long-lasting wardrobe investments with play and individuality.

While practicality still holds a tight grip on the season, the desire for originality is unmistakable. Designers like Willy Chavarria and Coach are already pushing classic bags with bold charms. Chanel and MKDT Studio are evolving trending accessories, showing how pins and brooches can turn a regular coat into a personal piece.

We can expect brands to keep innovating how accessories can be layered and paired, moving towards more customisation and joy, to completely change up reliable standardised FW25 pieces into expressive originals for FW26 that stand out from the crowd.

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